Thursday, June 30, 2011

Nissan Terrano. Change the traction tension-compression

To kill a banner front suspension Nissan Terrano, should be very even try - it's one of the safest parts of the car. But, although she and reliable, unfortunately not forever, and sometimes have to change the banner. If you often drive off-road, urban road with many bumps, or jumping on the curbs, suspension subjected to high load. And in many cases it is enough to hit a little hole and not on high speed, that would finish off the banner. In this case, you will hear a distinctive metallic punch. To start, you should carefully examine itself and stretching rubber bushings. Swing the front end of your car and look at the attachment point to pull the frame, if at a given site there is backlash, hence, will have to change. Node tension-compression consists of stretching itself (metal rod), on which there is threaded at one end and a hole at the other about 30 inches long. On which side of the car, it is not absolutely nothing of any significance, since it is symmetric. The diameter of the rubber bushings of 2 pieces, is 7 inches. Just part of the site are two metal washers and remote metal sleeve, which is not very strong and unfortunately. Now let's see, what to and what we have here attached. Thrust is attached to the frame with the side on which is threaded. Fastens it through rubber bushing nut on the "24", and the other end is attached to the back of the lower arm with two bolts on the "19" and two nuts on the "21". The conclusion: the replacement shall be subject to details such as: rubber bushings - 2 pcs, remote metal bushing and rubber gaskets.

Increased ground clearance on the Toyota Corolla

Russian roads require special attention. Little machines that do not catch on to head for the mound. Therefore, this article will be discussed to increase the ground clearance on the example of car Toyota Corolla. For the Corolla, you can use aluminum spacers designed to increase the clearance of VAZ 2108-2109. They are equipped with long bolts, which are identical to the thread with thread to the King. Work begins with the removal of racks. At hand should be ties, with which will be lifted springs. Before you start to compress the spring, we should weaken the central nut at the front, to avoid "shot". Once the rack is removed and with it removed the spring, we begin to dismantle it. Disassembly is limited to opening the upper bowl. Hammer knocked home (short) bolts are resistant to the body. These bolts have slots, and knocking you must apply one - two sharp blow. Then this place to establish new (long) bolts that are supplied with spacers. Next, assemble the rack. Set the anther, spring and cup with new bolts. The bolts from the top to install a spacer, and mount the rack in its place. After tightening the bolts, do not forget to tighten the central nut. The same operation done with other rack. Standard spacer has a thickness of 18-20 mm, and hence the clearance will increase, too, at this height. This part is devoted to the front suspension. Now raise the rear of the car. It is known that sags back more limber, because of the softer springs, so the technology to increase ground clearance is a little different.

Repair of steering rack for Honda Civic

The symptoms of a failure of the steering of the river are squeaks, noises, heavy rotation of the steering wheel. Under suspicion could fall ball joints, tie tips. But after a thorough diagnosis, we conclude that all this - still steering rack. This applies to all vehicles. In this paper we consider the repair of steering rack for Honda Civic. First we need to remove the battery and air filter. The air filter is removed together with the body. Then dismantled the cavity. Should pay attention to the bracket with a clip that holds the bundle of wires. Take it off carefully, otherwise it will break. Then in the car to unscrew the bolt kardanchika steering shaft. In the engine compartment to unscrew the two mounting bolts on the right side and nut on the left. Then, demountable pillars, through which the steering rack is attached to the body. Each bracket is fastened by three bolts. To remove the rail, you need to unscrew the two bolts 10 that secure the motor electric power steering. Not removing this motor, rail does not pull it off. You already knew that it was a steering rack with electric power steering. Remove it goes through the doorway arch on the right side of the car. For this purpose, poddomkrachennom car is necessary to remove the right wheel, and then stand by loosening the three mounting nuts to the body and two bolts to the axle. Unscrew the tip of the steering, while not forgetting tie pins, so that during operation it is not out of the checkpoint. Next unscrewed tie rods.

Replacing the clutch on a car VAZ 2108-2110

Do you feel that the transfer rates have ceased to be included, as before. Began slipping, jerking, or the noise appeared in the ILAC. After the diagnosis came to the conclusion that it was time to change the clutch. What you need? Lift or an observation well, a hydraulic jack or a mechanical one. If the work will take place at the pit, you will need a wide board, the capacity for oil. Before you drain the oil out of the box, you must ride in a car a couple of miles, the oil is warmed up and the glass is full. And so, unscrew the drain plug and oil blends. Balonnikom unscrew the wheel nuts and remove both wheels. Securely fix the machine, so during the work she did not fall. Disconnect the speedometer cable, clutch cable, starter wires and reversing sensor. All it takes away the side and anchoring as not to interfere. The following is from the PPC disconnected scenes. To remove the stem, it is necessary to remove the cable and the old drill or a breakdown of the knock pin. On both sides unscrew fasteners ball joints, and with the help montazhki pulls off the lever. The next, more important step is the removal of drives. Very carefully take them out of the PPC, not forgetting to move the rack to drive out completely. Then they must bind to the body, so they do not interfere, and their landing slots, to prevent loss of lateral differential gears, insert a metal rod with a diameter of about 26 mm. Further you need to unscrew the back support. Pre-cooked on a pit board puts a checkpoint.

Preparing the car for the winter

Soon will come the coldest time of year - winter. Respectively, and motorists difficulties begin. In this article I will try best to describe in detail the possible problems. With difficulty starting the car may have a poor support for oil, which is matched with the wrong viscosity. In our harsh winter conditions required to pour oil on the viscosity of 5W, and OW, the system of SAE. Manufacturers of such motor oils ensure fluidity even at -50 degrees. Also desirable manual gearbox, as well as reduktotor pour oil, which has a viscosity of 75-90W to SAE. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission, the problem with the grease does not arise. Most often there is filled with fluid DEXRON, which was designed and severe frosts. The car, which is over three years, it is desirable to flush the cooling system. Of course, anti-freeze without any problems can last for several years, yet it gradually expanded all sorts of additives and it is unfavorable for engine parts. After a night to look at the surface, which is located under the car near the engine, if you see that there are spots formed by the cooling fluid, which can occur when the temperature of the ambient air - you need to remove any. Even the slightest leak. If the coolant has become muddy or changed its color, its better to completely change. Do not compromise on flooding in the expansion tank is imported liquid. Indeed, domestic "Antifreeze" spoil all the pumps of the cooling system and replacing them - not a cheap pleasure.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Adjusting headlights on Honda Accord

If you violated the direction of the optical axes of the headlights of a car, it usually leads to blindness drivers moving forward. And that could lead to disaster. Adjusting the headlights should be conducted at least once a year. Consider a way to set an example of Optics Car Honda Accord. At each lamp has two spring screws (internal and external) with which, and made adjustments. Setting lights can do yourself, without referring to specialists. The screws are on the back of the headlights and have a cross-slot. Therefore, the corresponding need a screwdriver. On some models, Honda Accord, in addition to traditional screws, there is the level meters lamps front optics, and this makes the setup process is not complicated. If you can not configure with the screw, then visited a car accident. We put a car on a level surface, close to the ideal, because it will depend on the quality setting, the front part of the wall or fence. Stick the tape in a vertical line on the wall so he walked down the centerline plane machines. Line can also cause chalk. Then, apply the chalk, or again applying the tape, make a vertical mark, which would pass through the projection of the headlights right in the middle. Next, paste the tape in a horizontal line so that it passes through the center of the projection lamps on the wall. All these actions are performed in the immediate vicinity of the wall that is necessary to adjust the car up close. Then driven away, or roll back the car about 7.5 meter.

Part-painted car with his hands

In our time, many paint shops offer a painting of cars on a professional level. Is there a possibility to perform painting of the car with his hands? In theory, there really is such a possibility, but in practice the result of painting will depend on your skills and abilities. Laborious process of painting a car part should be divided into 3 phases. Originally worth wash the car and identify any defects body. In the preparatory phase includes a thorough preparation of the surface. This process requires a great deal of time and little time is spent on application of paints and varnishes. From good surface preparation directly depends on the strength of new coats of paint, varnish and polish. Need to remove old paint, and as carefully as possible. For this stage you can apply the tips to an electric drill or special chemical wash. Then you need to degrease the surface and apply primer to ensure a firm grip of all the layers of paint applied to cover. The second stage is a filler. This step is necessary to align the surface: removal of dents and unevenness, roughness. When applying putty most important thing to pay attention to details and the uniformity of the layer. For this purpose we use a special tool - a spatula. When choosing fillings, you should pay attention to varieties containing special additives that enhance the strength and heat resistance of the surface. To eliminate the through injury should select filler with chopped fiberglass. The third stage consists in applying the paint.

Soundproofing your hands 21099

Well, here's a motorist does not dream about that in his car was silent during the ride. Yeah whatever. For these purposes, proper and necessary insulation. Happens that the factory or the standard insulation in general do not like VAZ 21099 car owner (or entirely absent). In this case, it should be done by hand. And how do we now, in detail and analyze! In order to produce sound proofing your car VAZ 21099 need not be an expert in this matter. There's nothing complicated. To do this you will need vibrodempfer from STF vibroton, Shumkov felt anonymous, and the latter is bitoplast stizol plus felt Shumkov. Brushes, avtoplastilin, glue moment mastic. Best to start with removing the rear sofa and shelves with safety belts. Then you remove the front seat, dashboard, and the old sound insulation. You must then apply to the entire floor of two layers of the body and produce a so-called intermediate drying (two hours). Just be pokleit sofa back with two layers of linokroma and arches back to the time of the adhesive in one layer. We must give him lie in the sun or hair dryer to heat the building. After this you should seal the entire floor linokromom, preferably in two layers, the paste body, and it is necessary staffing vibrozaplatki tear, only in places where they are not fit to the floor. All this from a professional in their field will take more than a very long time (unless of course everything is not distracted and takes only a sound-proof). Followed by pokleit linkormom roof at the time of the glue and then you can top it pokleit bitoplast.

Polishing car windows with his hands

The process of polishing glass of any car is to eliminate neglubogih scratches and damage the glass, produced under the influence of external environmental factors, as well as janitorial work. Polishing of glass requires a sufficient diligence and patience, but if you know how to deal with power and you have free time, you can save a considerable amount of money that goes to pay for the Wizard of polishing. Approximate polishing process can be considered as an example the windshield. First we need to enumerate a list of tools and materials required for polishing. Here is their sample list: 1. Special powder for polishing automotive glass. 2. Terms of polishing. 3. Machine for polishing, although you can use an ordinary electric drill. To her lap for polishing is attached as freely as on the machine. 4. Film (needed to cover the car, to avoid contamination of the body). 5. Dry wipes (do not use vorsinistuyu tissue) and a liquid for cleaning glasses (quite suitable, and the liquid glass cleaners you use in the household). 6. Scotch paint, marker and Squirtwoman. 7. Workwear. If you do not mind my regular clothes, then this item may be appropriate. If you use the machine for polishing a look of speed as it develops. This is a very important aspect, because the pace by polishing the glass should not exceed 1700 rpm. At high speeds is overheating the glass, and this in turn may lead to deformation. Before you begin to work to determine the nature and extent of the damage. Small scratches and light wear Lego amenable polishing.

Replacing brake pads Toyota Avensis

If a twelve-year Toyota Avensis was time to change the brake pads do not necessarily ask for help in an expensive car wash. This work is well under the force of any person who is familiar with the technique. Among owners of older vehicles many people like. They have a garage and a tool suitable necessary and sufficient literature on your car is. If you have recently noted the presence of vibrations at the wheels during braking, while dismantling the brakes sure to pay attention to the condition of brake discs for your car. The thickness of the body of the brake discs should not be less than twenty-two millimeters. Begin work on replacing brake pads and maybe drive by removing the wheel. It is worth recalling that the car, thus, should be completely secure yourself from falling trestle. If you started with the left wheel, be sure to turn the steering wheel to the left. This will facilitate your access to the bolts - the guides, located in closed cylindrical tubes elastics. These guides prevent gum brake pads from dirt and corrosion. Remove gum and get access to the two bolts that need to unscrew using a six-or eight-sided key. Only by removing the two screws you can remove the caliper. We have access to brake pads. One of the shoe is on the bracket, and we can easily take out. On the back side of the second block is a spring clip, which strip is attached to the brake cylinder piston. Do not fear anything, pull on the shoe itself and take out of the piston. Now the shoe dropped.

How do I replace the carburetor on the car VAZ own hands

This exercise is not difficult. Doing this work once the second time tips is not required. So you've decided to replace or clean the carburetor itself, it needs to: reduce prolonged clamp and remove the crimp, hose for air intake pipe from the thermostat. Next, remove the air filter, for this we need the key to the 8, they need to unscrew the 4 nuts that attach the air filter housing to the carburetor itself. Sometimes it happens that the loosening of nuts, they slip and fall, so it's best podstelit clean cloth to unscrew the nuts do not accidentally drop into the intake manifold, and then need to remove the plate. Loosen the clamp and remove the crankcase ventilation hose from the pipe. After this work is necessary to remove the air filter itself. Then again need to switch to 8 who need to loosen the bolt tightening fastener membrane tether drive choke, then gently loosen with a screwdriver tightening screws holding the cable, and the need to hold the nut 7 and the key to pull the rope. Further work is taking off with a hose fitting tap the gas, then you need to remove the tips of two wires on the output of micro system management idle economizer. Further, poddevaem screwdriver and remove the rod in the form of a wire with a throttle valve lever. The next stage - a withdrawal of the hose of the electromagnetic valve control system with idle economizer economizer fitting. Loosen the clamp and remove the fuel hose to the carburetor. Now you need to remove the carburetor itself, this would require a key for 13, they need to unscrew the four nuts - it's fixing the carburetor to the intake manifold and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Inspection and maintenance of injectors of diesel engines Toyota

Test Set injection pressure nozzle on test bench for verification. Several times quickly shake lever fuel injection, creating a pressure sprayer to clean the hole. Slowly swing the lever on the gauge and determine the pressure at which the needle begins to rise. This must be placed within: used jet - 135-155 bar, the new jet - 145-155 bar. If the pressure is not consistent with those values, adjust it by adjusting the thickness of shims required (change in thickness shims to 0,025 mm leads to a change in injection pressure at 3.5 bar). You should use only one adjusting washer. Check for tightness of the needle jet. Create a test bench for injectors pressure of 10-20 bar up to the opening of the injector. In this case, should not be observed leakage of fuel from the nozzle hole or around the compression nuts nozzle for 10 seconds (if there is leakage of fuel, replace or repair the nozzle). Disassembly, cleaning and inspection of the injectors. With the help of a special device, unscrew the locking nut of the nozzle (at dismantling the nozzle does not allow the loss of her internal parts). Remove the spring, shims, the bottom plate of the spring spacer. Cleaning nozzle parts with wooden sticks, brass (or copper), brushes, wash and rinse the body spray in diesel fuel (do not touch the working surface details.) Using a wooden rod, clean the deposits from the tip of the needle gun. Check for corrosion centers on the support surface and the nozzle at the tip of the needle gun. In case of detection of corrosion, replace the housing and needle spray.

Body repair WHA

Some times a year (preferably every six months) need to check the paint coating machine and its restoration. Minor injuries are not striking, but if they are not removed, they grow and are much lower viability car. Small dents can be corrected on your own - easily beating inside a soft mallet. If the dent is not available internally, we can use a strong magnet. To remedy must be imposed on the magnet surface close to the dent and slowly led a magnet over the surface of the damaged items until the magnet does not pull the metal in place. After straightening is necessary to identify sites that require restoration of coverage - scratches, abrasions, chipped. Repair is best done in warm, dry weather or in a heated room. Be sure to provide ventilation, because most of the materials used to repair covers, highlights harmful substances. The first operation - cleaning the damaged area. For her, use a fine sandpaper. You can work manually or with an electric drill. Trimmed necessarily the entire depth of the damage gradually venturing from the intact portion to be defective. Check the quality of cleaning is simple - to hand over details, and the boundary between patches should not be felt. After this necessarily wash the exposed area (mineral spirits or a similar composition) and dried. The next operation - a primer. If the coating was not damaged to the metal, but only the surface layer and in the sweep was not filmed primer, then this step can be skipped. Priming will strictly according to instructions, which should be attached to it (usually written on a bank with a primer).

Repair "Cardan" in a car UAZ

To repair the shaft, remove it from the vehicle. Unscrew the clip seal splined connection, straighten her first in places where it was produced kernenie, and move in the direction of the pipe seal. With the help of an indicator, measure the radial clearance slot "cardan" two planes (perpendicular) at 7-8 cm from the end of the fork slots and fix its value. Permissible shaft runout after the edits must be a maximum of 0.6 mm at any place along its entire length. Crossings should be changed if: Bore than 1.6 cm on the cylinders are visible longitudinal indentations; heavily worn neck crosses at the installation site seal. If damage or wear of the working edges, seals, replace the end seals. The same applies to the needle bearings, if deformed or lost one of the needles, or they swing on the cylinders. Replace the developed parts of the compound (spline) "cardan" when the radial clearance in the slots becomes more 0,13-0,15 see Worn plugs should be replaced if the hole for the bearing has a diameter over 3 cm, or between planes ears fork length exceeds 6 If you see damage or wear rubber or felt ring, replace them. Change the shaft in case of breakage or wear of its individual parts. Without balancing driveshaft may be replaced with a cross in the set, only if there is no vibration. Propeller shaft assembly. At the end of the slotted "cardan" install everything in reverse order of removal. Before you collect the splined connection, felt ring lubrication necessarily saturate and do not forget to lubricate the splines.

Self-replacement rear silent blocks for VAZ

Signs of failure silent blocks the rear beam on VAZ models 21/08, 09/21, 21099, 2110, 2112, 2114, 2115 may serve as a characteristic knocking or creaking in the rear, uneven wear of the rear wheels, some loss of stability of the back axis, which manifests itself most noticeably when cornering. If you notice these symptoms, most likely you will have to replace the rear silent blocks the beam. How to do it his own, without recourse to maintenance garages and while spending extra time and hassle, you learn from this article. To begin, we note one important fact that not all silent blocks for the above car models can be used on any of them. So, for the models 2108, 2109, 21099 silent blocks are sold under the catalog number 2108-2914054, but for the models 2110, 2112, 2114, 2115 catalog number - 2110-2914054. Difference is the outer diameter of silent blocks. Expect it and be careful, because you can not safely install rear silent blocks, say, the VAZ-2110 to the beam VAZ-2109 and vice versa. Getting to our operation to replace the rear silent blocks the beam! What do we need: a couple of captive key 19, a hammer, a planer, two jacks, wooden bar and a tool for pressing silent blocks. These things fixture you can buy in auto parts stores, as well as possible to build such a setup myself. If, however, still have to collect it manually, then you need to do to be 170-mm screw diameter of 12 millimeters, the ring-cage height of 40 and a diameter of 50 millimeters. We now proceed directly to the description of the replacement beams on the rear silent blocks considered in this paper cars.

Installing a contactless ignition system on the car VAZ

Ignition system used on the VAZ classical models, delivers a lot of trouble. Despite the reliability of the site, periodically causes such problems as the weakening of the spring movable contact, wear and contact breaker cam, vibration, and oxidation of contacts, because of constant mechanical loads little life support bearing. All these drawbacks indication that such an ignition system is morally and technically outdated. And although AvtoVAZ came to the same conclusions, but the complete zadneprivodnye machines that system is not in a hurry. Therefore, to install a wireless ignition system can (and should) on their own. This system allows not only to forget about the above shortcomings, but adds a number of positive points compared to the previous system. Primarily, this increase in power spark. In the secondary circuit voltage increases to 22-24 kV (previously 16-18 kV), the resulting fuel / air mixture burns completely, leading to a decrease in CO in the exhaust. A definite plus and is the point that at low temperatures (fall, winter) the engine will run better, improve dynamic performance. The operation of such systems more reliable and established, and does not require constant monitoring of the ignition system. Kit to install this ignition system fits VAZ 2101, 2102, 2104, 2105, 2106 and 2107, as well as their modifications. The kit includes: switch (type 3620.3734), it converts the sensor control pulses into pulses of current in the primary winding of the ignition coil, sensor - distributor, it is integrated microelectronic sensor that controls impulses, ignition coil (a type of 27.3705) with an open magnetic circuit; Wiring harness, which connects the system components together, and connects to the road network, a set of candles (type A17DVR, you can replace the similar domestic or imported), high-voltage wires, which can operate with increased voltage in the secondary circuit.

Steering a car Toyota Camry 1994 release

Check the amount of movement steering wheel. To do this on a stationary vehicle expose the wheels straight and gently rock the steering wheel, the gap should not exceed a maximum value (the maximum gap must be within 30 mm). In case of discrepancies repaired. Check the details of the steering no loose connections and damage . Tie rods should not be elevated backlash, cases should not be damaged, clamps covers should not be weakened. crankcase Check steering for absence of leakage of oil. In the case where there are stains of oil, with the sealant fix them. Removing the steering column. Disconnect the negative wire from the battery. Remove the cardan joint. Unscrew the two bolts. First, move the cardan joint on the steering housing, and then remove it from the steering shaft. Remove the steering wheel, steering wheel pad and nut. Using puller, remove the steering wheel. Remove the bottom cover the instrument panel and top cover steering column. Disconnect the ignition switch and combo switch. Remove the combination switch and steering column. Loosen the screw clamp housing. Remove the caliper bolts and remove the steering column. Now disassembly. Remove the top bracket. Kern mark the center bolt with a conical head. drill diameter of 0.4 cm drill bolt with a conical head. Using a tool for removing broken screws, remove the remnants of the bolt. Unscrew the two screws, disconnect the upper bracket and the housing tube steering column. Remove the main shaft (Remove the two retaining bolts, using Pliers remove the retainer ring, remove the main shaft and using Pliers, remove the retainer ring with the main shaft).

Monday, June 27, 2011

Replacing the ball joints and springs on the car Toyota Vista 1993 release

Replacing the spring. Disassembly of the site stands a dangerous operation that requires special attention. Use only high-quality stripper springs and carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions. Remove the rack with a spring (be careful when performing this operation not to damage the brake hose and duster pivot equally. Angular velocity). Attach a rack in a vise. Impose a sponge cloth vise to prevent damage to the rack (do not tighten the vise too hard to avoid deformation of the body counters). Install puller springs according to the enclosed instructions on the spring and compress it so that lift the pressure from a support rack. Using a wrench unscrew the nut of the rod, remove the nut and a support pillar. Remove the top cup springs and shock absorbers from the upper stem. Carefully lift the compressed spring (at the same time, avoid sharp blows to the site, otherwise the spring may be released and cause you injury), buffer, and the dust cover with stock. Check the upper and lower shock absorbers for the presence of wear and cracks. If necessary, replacement. Install the dust cover and a buffer, extend the entire length of stem and lower case and clipboard down on the rack enclosure. If the lower shock absorbers were replaced, install a new narrow part at the bottom of the nest. Carefully place the spring on the lower shock absorbers, placing the end of the spring in its lower part. Convinced that the plane of the opening in the socket aligned with the planes of the rod, set the upper shock absorbers and a jack spring.

The general device and diagnostics mechanisms clutch on a car Toyota Camry 1994 release

All cars with manual transmission have a single-plate dry clutch with diaphragm spring. Clutch plate under the influence of clutch fork moves along the guide rails input shaft. The hydraulic system includes a clutch pedal, master cylinder to the tank, hydraulic tube, slave cylinder actuating the Clutch release bearing and clutch release fork. Check and adjust the clutch pedal can be as follows: Check the distance from the clutch pedal to the floor (left hand drive - 191-201 mm, the right wheel - 177,5-187,5 mm) If necessary, adjust with locking screw, removing the bottom trim panel of the instrument panel and disconnecting the duct, remove the lock nut. Adjusting, tighten the lock nut. Then check the size of St. of the clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder pushrod. Depress the pedal until the resistance (St. pedal - 0,5-1,5 cm, follower -1-5 mm). If you see the need, bring to the norms of free travel and the length of the pusher. The sequence is as follows: Loosen the lock nut and turn the plunger until the value of St. of the pedal and the pushrod will not meet the specified values; Tighten the lock nut; After adjustment, check the distance from the pedal to the floor and connect the duct to set the lower trim panel. Now check the condition of the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc. Typically, adhesion failure is associated with deterioration or lubricating clutch disc. But check out all the details to be clutch. Inspect the surface of the flywheel and measure the heartbeat of its surface.

Repair cylinder clutch on Nissan Terrano

If you find a fact drip of brake fluid on the clutch pedal, and after a while she does a failure, it is an urgent need to make repairs cylinder clutch! Perform this procedure is not difficult. Initially, you need to stock up on an hour of free time and a new set of cylinder coupling, which consists of a piston with established cuffs, a return spring, locking rings, the anther and a rubber ring-pads for the locking bolt. Now we can proceed to replace most of the cylinder. Originally need to get a torpedo and explore the extreme left pedal - the clutch pedal. Then you must extract shpling and axle mount. Next you need to move from under the car and look under the hood. Perform work on the extraction of nuts, which mounted a cylinder to shield the engine compartment. This is the most difficult moment. In addition, the place where the fixed clutch master cylinder requires removal of rust. It is very important! Next, remove the lid from the tank cylinder, pour the remains of the brake fluid and initiate the procedure for disassembly: remove the dust cover, remove the retainer ring, loosen the locking bolt (in this case carefully to maintain the piston that would spring cutting it is not pushed), clean and wash all the necessary details of the remnants of brake fluid (which would not damage the cylinder mirror is not needed when cleaning the resort to the use of metal objects). Now, when all polished and namyto, you can begin to assemble in reverse order. Before you install a rubber sleeve piston to smear them with brake fluid.

Disassemble, repair and assemble "Volgovsky" shock absorber

Collate can isolator, adhering to the following priority actions: Fix the shock in the grip of the lower mounting lug, move the piston in the up position. Then, a special wrench, unscrew the nut shell. Swinging motion of the upper part of the stem to remove it, complete with a piston cylinder. At the same time Take extra care in order not to damage the polished surface of the rod. Remove the slave cylinder from the tank and completely drain the fluid shock absorber. Fasten the grip rod for the upper mounting lug nut and remove the piston. Dismantle the piston with the details of the valve, as the guide and clip seal. All parts of the shock wash in kerosene or gasoline. Cleaned and dried parts, inspect, and mark those that require correction or replacement. In assessing the state of the valve assemblies of parts, pay special attention to the condition of valve edges, in the presence of scratches on his saddle, or on the working surface of the valve should be significantly wear or other defects, using the method of grinding, remove them. Replace parts of valves, if the inspection they found out the kinks and cracks. Absorber to collect in the reverse order, with the following details: Saturate a new shock absorber fluid seal of the foam before installing. Install a rubber seal rod in a holder so that the label "low" it was directed to the piston. Before you install a new gasket on the stem, the inner surface of it, which will be in contact with the rod, be sure to lubricate the shock absorber fluid.

Checking the clearances in the mechanism of the valve drive mechanism motors Toyota 3-5 S-FE, 4S-Fi, 1-3, 4VZ-FE, 3S-GE and adjustment

Disconnect the negative wire from the battery, push it aside, except for its occasional contact with the negative terminal of the battery. Disconnect the cable system cruise control, air filter, channel and other elements that prevent the removal of the cap (lid) of the head unit. Remove the cover (s) of the head unit. To facilitate scrolling crankshaft unscrew the spark plugs. Place the number 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Identify the gaps of these valves with a feeler gauge and fix the results of measurements that do not meet technical specifications. Gaps in the valve train, measured on a cold engine should meet the following quantities: For engines 3-5 S-FE, 4S-Fi, 1-3, 4VZ-FE clearances inlet. Valves - 0,19 - 0,29 mm, graduation. - 0,28 - 0,38 mm. For the 3S-GE engine valve clearances (inlet) - 0,15-0,25 mm, graduation. - 0,20 - 0,30 mm. Note: The four-cylinder engines, the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC compression stroke, it is possible to measure gaps exhaust valves 1 and 3 cylinders and the intake valves 1 and 2 cylinders. On the engines of V6, the first cylinder when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, you can measure the clearance of inlet valves 1 and 6, cylinders and exhaust 2 and 3 cylinders. At the 4-cylinder engines, turn to / shaft 360 degrees and re-align the setup tags. Measure the gaps remaining valves. Note: The four-cylinder engines, the piston 4-cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke can be measured clearances exhaust valves 2 and 4 cylinders and the intake valves 3 and 4 cylinders.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Repair and installation of parts brake wheel (rear) on a Toyota car for Vista

Inspect the surface of the parts are inspected for signs of increased wear, rust or damage. Make a measurement of thickness of brake linings. Optimal for sedans - 4,0 mm, for estate - 5,0 mm. Permissible thickness (min) lining brake pads - 1 mm. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum. Nominal diameter for sedans - 200,0 mm for estate - 228.6 mm. Maximum allowable diameter for sedans - 201.0 mm for estate - 230.6 mm. Check the contact pads rear brake pads and brake drum. Using a set of probes measure the gap between the brake shoe and lever (nominal gap of more than 0,35 mm). If necessary, replace the shims. To do this: Remove the lever "parking brake" and install the necessary thickness of shims, set the lever and a new circlip, again measure the gap. Now you need to install the parts on the car. Assemble the wheel brake cylinder. Install the wheel cylinder on the base plate rear brake and tighten the two mounting bolts. Connect the brake hose to the wheel brake cylinders. Grease the surface of the shield brake mechanism, the regulator of the gap and into areas of the shield in contact with the brake pads. Set the gap on the rear brake pads and attach a return spring. Install the spring lever knob clearance and rear brake pads (with the tip of the cable plug Pliers "parking brake" to the lever, put the drive cable to the deepening of the shield rear brake and install rear brake pads). With the help of professional. devices, set the spring support post pads, springs, plates and rack pads.

The rules of painting the car with his hands

Toyota-car in need of care and comfort care, attention and love of the automobile owner. And, of course, this also applies to the appearance of the car, and immediately his painting. And who, as a pet owner does not make it better? Of course, the professionals by professionals, but their own manual labor has always been a special account in the price. Of course, having decided to paint at home, you need to follow certain rules and technological aspects, so as not to turn your favorite beauty Toyota into a monster. In the first place, just before the painting, you need to completely clean up the beautiful and once again think well - whether painting is necessary, or you can leave everything as is. Of course, the need to wash your own hands, and at the same time, check out the bottom, pillars and other details on the actual importance of the repair. And if, still need repair any details, the painting should be postponed. The next stage - to paint is to prepare the body. With the help of pliers, screwdrivers and other tools necessary to remove all the body parts (seals, locks, etc.) that are not subject to paint. Further, after this painstaking studies the turn of cleansing the body from corrosion. If you notice holes from rust is necessary to use welding. The next stage - a primer. That is, anti-corrosion coating of a car, which is divided into three phases. The initial phase - phosphate metal (creating a special protective film). The second stage - with the help of a primer to equalize the smoothed virtually invisible defects and the surface is prepared specifically for varnishing.

Replacing the rear springs on the VAZ

If you have even the smallest load on the interior or trunk of a car is seen significantly reduced clearance, it's time to replace the rear springs. First of all you need to buy yourself a spring. It is noteworthy that the highest quality and practicality of different springs made Perm spring-of spring plant "or by" Track ". In addition to the springs, you'll need rubber spacers with metal clip. They come in standard, medium and high dimensions. Below, you will learn about installing standard springs middle spacer. Of course, you can experiment and install the springs with high flange, but it is only possible if the installation of simple springs, but not reinforced. Since the latter is much higher than the first, and, consequently, greatly raise the car. In addition, if your car plays the role of everyday "truck" you, in case of emergency may try loading the spring. To implement the procedure for replacing the rear springs you need a special tool: two jacks, two key number 19, the key cylinders and a screwdriver. Before the work necessary to install a car at the observation well, so as to change the springs on the ground will be difficult and uncomfortable. The system replaced the rear springs on the VAZ: 1. Must omit the wheel bolts and unscrew the bottom. Remove the lower shock bolt, loosen and remove the bolt short thrust 2. Car jack to lift the body, install jack and raise the wheel 3. Lower the jack "trapeze" rear axle car, carefully follow the spring (you'll see how it will fade in and out of seats) and the brake hose that would not break it; 4.

How to change the fuel filter on Nissan?

For example, describe how his own to replace the fuel filter on Nissan to filter from the Chevrolet Niva, but can be used as a substitute for any other, must be applied to the nipples, 8 mm. Exceptions are filters kabyuratornyh machines that are not recommended to be put, as they pressure is not calculated, and the filtering is less than they had the injections in the first place we take out the whole construction of the tank, then dismantle it, take out the filter. In the next stage of fuel pump take out the gum, combining the latter with a pipe, clamps and produce a contraction in the tank. Connection is made using a hose with an inner diameter Join the who than can, I use a hose with an inner diameter of 10mm, only need to use the hose from the petrol-resistant materiala.Posle need to look under the hood. In this case, the mother hose bends slightly and produce a connection to the filter. On the back of the tube with a filter connect a hose from a rag braiding of karbTaza. Cost of this work is about 150 rubles, have the ultimate alternative to the use of the original filter, the price is about 800 rubles. But this replacement is not worse, and palpable economic effect immediately.

How to remove the VAZ 2110 gearbox?

Removing the gearbox from your vehicle should be conducted in an observation well or use a lift. In the first step is to remove the splash from your engine. The next step is to disconnect the traction motor, as well as reactive thrust from the gearbox. Following the action must be from the gearbox to drain oil. Next, remove the bottom cover of the crater clutch by loosening the three mounting bolts, for this we use a special key "to 10". Withdrawals should be made of the right front wheel drive, replacing the hole in the gearbox plug of wood, or you can apply for this small piece of rubber hose. After take off the left front wheel drive. Unclip the clutch of the gearbox. Further need to disconnect the battery lead battery with a minus sign and remove the starter. After you disconnect wires from the light switch reverse, with the disconnect speed sensor. Remove ring by unscrewing the nut key "to 17". Unlinked left footing the power unit, this engine is put under stress. Unlinked from the crater of the clutch cylinder, turning the key 19 three bolts. Then remove the gearbox from the engine. In the future installation of transmission should be performed in reverse order.

How to replace front brake pads on Toyota Corolla?

The following describes the process of replacing front brake pads for the car Toyota Corolla. The first thing we need to loosen the caliper, using the key "to 12" Then you should make an untwisting the caliper bracket, with the pads, using the key "to 14". And then make measurements of the thickness of the disk, it should not exceed 8 mm. After which the caliper hang the wire to the spring, the purification of spray cleaner for brake use, then coated with a protective compound against corrosion. Next, you must remove the rails, put grease on them and after these manipulations immediately reinsert it. Compares the old with the new pads. After that you should perform cleaning staples of dirt and should be covered with a special compound must also perform the purification, after which the high-temperature grease to lubricate the bearings. Next set the pads in place, tightening the caliper bracket using the moment 47 Nm, and the slide - 27 Nm. After you install the wheel on the car, fasten it with glue moment 103 Nm.

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Repair of Cylinder (principal) on the car Nissan Terrano

If you found the clutch pedal brake fluid drips or pedal when you press it, simply "fails", it's time to repair the clutch master cylinder. The procedure itself repairs will not take much of your time (no more than 1 hour), and large investments of Finance does not require. Need to buy a repair kit consisting of a rubber gasket (ring-shaped) for the locking bolt, locking ring, a piston mounted with his cuffs, a locking ring and return spring. Proceed directly to the repair. First you need to remove the cylinder from the vehicle. Under the dashboard we find the pedal mount clutch master cylinder with a rod. Free the stem, removing the locking pin with the axis of attachment. Moving outwards, we carry out the work necessary to remove the cylinder in the engine compartment of the car. The difficulty here is to remove one of the nuts, as it is located in a remote place for housing the diaphragm vacuum booster. However, little effort, the problem is easy to solve. Removing the cylinder, you can find in the area of ??its attachment oxides white (traces of corrosion) - they must be eliminated. Strip the place of corrosion to the metal, apply fresh paint, she has time to dry while you are busy repairing the cylinder. Metal tube removal of brake fluid from the cylinder can not shoot (this will save you time and eliminate the possibility of damage, as the tube and the threaded part). Freeing up of the terminals located on the shield of the engine bay, brings the cylinder to the side for the convenience of its eventual dismantling.

Disassembly and reassembly of the front hub on a Toyota car Vista

Disassembly Using a screwdriver, remove the anthers and the inner gland (from the fist) of the knuckle holes. With the forceps for removing circlips remove the retaining ring from the knuckle. With a special puller, remove the hub from the knuckle. Now remove the inner bearing (from the knuckle) of the wheel bearing. With a special puller Pull the inner bearing from the wheel with the wheel hub. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer gland (from the wheel) from the opening the knuckle. Install the inner bearing from the knuckle, and with the help of a brass rod and a hammer knock out the bearing hub. If necessary, replace the hub bearing only in the package. Assembly through the press zapressuyte bearing in the knuckle bore. Install the outer gland (from the wheel). First, a uniformly rotating outer gland, set it to spec. the mounting gaskets, so that the step "groove" seal came into contact with the tab specials. devices. Then, with the help of professional. adaptation set in the gland opening the knuckle. Place the protective cover the front brake on the steering knuckle and tighten its mounting bolts to the knuckle. Zapressuyte wheel hub bearing in the hub (steering knuckle). For this purpose grease seal on the working edge of the universal grease and lay it in the space between the working edge of the gland and stuffing box with one hand and the bearing hub on the other. Then, with the mandrel and press zapressuyte hub into the bearing hub (steering knuckle). With the forceps for removing and installing the retaining rings, set the snap ring into the hole knuckle.

Replacing brake pads on the Nissan Terrano

Stopping distance your car will grow considerably during the next inspection you notice that the thickness of the brake disc does not correspond to the optimum. Conclusion - an urgent need to replace the thinned discs. To exchange will require the following facilities and tools: lift, rack or pit. A standard set of tools available to each motorist, jack, support (preferably a "tripod"). Consumables and spare parts. If you can bring to repair an assistant should not neglect it. So, securely fixed wheel (rear) of the machine, proceed to repair. Loosening the nut of the front wheel, hung out one side of the car with the jack, summing up the jack under the front crossbeam. Bringing the car lift to the desired height, substitute the focus for hedging. Remove the wheel. To prevent dirt and dust into the bearing hub, remove all garbage from the entire surface around the hub and a caliper. Now, with the help of a visiting assistant, you need to unscrew six bolts holding the brake disc to the hub. Assistant should sit on the driver's seat, the brake pedal and still fix the wheel. Meanwhile, you loosen the nut fastening the brake disc. Unscrew the two bolts, remove the brake calipers and to avoid damaging its brake hose, podvyazhite it to the upper arm with a rope. Dismantle the brake pads, caliper bracket, clamping spring. Release the brake disc finally, after fixing the hub. Remove the cover from the hub by unscrewing the end of six bolts (under the hexagon). Remove the lid to with the utmost caution.

Tubeless tire repair itself

Have you ever run across the road on a nail or glass? And if you do it yet and did not immediately noticed? ride, and the wheel pulls you to pump up, and it descends again. And here it is - a nail (splinter) in the bus, what to do with it? Do put spare tire? "Not necessarily. The first variant. take out the nail with pliers, oil the glue" moment ", spinning backward. This version is suitable for the nails with a hat, preferably screws. After such repairs can spend on a trip a month. Option Two. Buy kit for repairing tubeless tires. It includes: the adhesive and special rubber-coated filaments, awl, file, and cutter. We take out the pliers cause a puncture, trimmed with a file hole, lubricates glue flagellum and pass through it in awl (most likely a huge needle). flagellum in awl should be in the middle of its length. Shyla shoves in a hole and take out sharply, so that the ends of the flagella remained in the hole. cut off the excess and check for holes (you can just pour the water.) wheel is better to pump up to 2 atmospheres as time between the removal of causes of punctures and threading into the hole flagellum. you hit the air pressure back to normal after the operation. Option A third, more reliable, but more time-consuming. Remove the wheel, razbortirovat cut and paste into "fungus» (Uni-Seal) with glue. Pour a little bit (100 grams) of gasoline into the bus and set fire to the burning paper. wheel pump. Unfortunately, this method of tire repair is not possible under field conditions, but (despite a "fungus"), you can plug the rather large damage to one and a half inches.

Replacing the stabilizer bar bushings on auto Toyota Camry

Stabilizer bar, which is used on this car is unique because it also serves to prevent longitudinal movement of the lower suspension arms. To replace the bushings of the stabilizer, there is no need to disconnect the stabilizer of the lower suspension arms. Withdrawal. Raise the car with the jack and attach the supports. Unscrew the two large nuts stabilizer to the lower arm, remove the holder. Unscrew the bolts and nuts crossbeam suspension, then lower the crossbeam. Loosen the clamp bolts shift control cable transmissions, then remove the central beam engine mounting. Unscrew the bracket lower arm from the body. Removing only with one hand. Remove the four bolts (after loosening the bolts of the first two prop stabilizer to prevent it from falling) U-shaped bracket stabilizer bar. Now remove the stabilizer from the lower lever (in the presence of spacers used between the arms and stabilizer, do not lose them). Replacement sleeves Remove U-shaped bracket with a stabilizer and the rubber sleeve oscillating motion. Then remove the rubber bushing with a stabilizer, and clean the socket sleeve to remove dust and rust. To facilitate the installation of new grease sleeve inside and out with vegetable oil (do not use lubricant on the basis of kerosene or minerals, as well as brake fluid - this will damage the sleeve). Install a new sleeve on the stabilizer, then insert the U-shaped bracket, using the oscillating motion in the presence of resistance. Installation. Replace the pads and holders, the ends of the stabilizer in the lower arms, set holders and new nut.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Why does not heat the stove in the Toyota

If the air coming out of the lattice heating system is cold, then the cause could be: a) There has been jamming the thermostat in the open position, which limits the heating of the coolant, and hence heating radiator heater. Replace the thermostat. b) clogged heater hose, which is why the coolant does not flow into the radiator heater. Feel both heater hoses located on the lateral septum. They should be hot. If one of them cool, then choked one of the hoses or radiator heater, or closed throttle control heater. Disconnect hoses and flush the radiator with water from a hose in the opposite direction. If the radiator is clean and the circulation is difficult, remove the two hoses and flush with water. If the speed heater fan does not correspond to set the switch, then the cause may be a faulty fuse, circuit breaker, a resistor, the fan motor or the motor itself. a) Before you check the fan motor and check the fuse circuit. b) Check the voltage with a test lamp or voltmeter. c) Pull the control the heater / air conditioning unit at a sufficient distance from the front panel and check - a test lamp or voltmeter - the presence of voltage on the switch electric fan heater. d) Locate the fan motor resistor in the glove compartment. Check the voltage across the resistor. d) With a test lamp or voltmeter check the voltage on the fan motor. If no voltage, replace the resistor. If the lattice does not enter the air: a) Turn on the ignition, then turn on the fan. Hold an ear to the grille heater / air conditioner.

The pressure regulator brake VAZ 2101-2107

With the deterioration of the drums, pads, cylinders, seals, rear brakes the need for pressure regulator is not necessary. pressure regulator - this valve automatically (when lifting the rear of inertia during braking) overlying flow of brake fluid going to the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes to reduce the likelihood of Hughes's rear wheels. Frequently, loss of mobility of the piston, pressure regulator simply does not work and recalls his "only in connection with the failure as a result of rusting pipes, suitable for him. The appearance of the defect is as follows: lost brakes and brake fluid from the tank brakes the rear wheels. leak better to seek together, after topping up the brake fluid one hits the brakes, the vehicle has a different look, where the leak. The efficiency of the brake system can be restored as follows. Cut the tube going from the master cylinder to the pressure regulator (with reserve), disconnect the tube going from the pressure regulator, a hose and remove from the tube fitting with thread M10x1, 25. Fitting put on at the end of the tube leading from the master cylinder and gently razvaltsovyvaem it can end with a file. Brake hoses. With a broken front brake hose, work the second circuit is difficult to see. The impression is that completely lost the brakes, although when pressed on the brake pedal until it stops you will notice that something is there. Braking is a handbrake or (and) engine. What to do if no front hose? You can use the rear hose, in this case, instead of bolts S14 attaching the hose to the caliper to the caliper vvertyvaem rear hose fitting, fastening the other end is similar to the front-fastening hose.

Removing and installing the PPC-2121 WHA

To perform a simple but hard work to lift the gearbox with all-terrain vehicle VAZ-2121 (NIVA), you must have an inspection pit, overhead, or a powerful lift. Before you begin, make sure that the battery is disconnected and removed from the car, hung out one or both rear-wheel drive car, released "handbrake" and PPC is set to "neutral." Are working inside the cabin: Removing rugs and anthers with levers Gearbox and transfer box, unscrew the handle lever. Remove the resonator and "trousers" of the exhaust gases. Turn off the two lower bolts clutch to the engine block. Release the clutch slave cylinder (two bolts "on 13" and the spring clutch fork), and taking him aside. You can completely remove the cylinder, disconnect the supply tube, but in this case, setting it in place, will have to "pump" system. We pass underneath the car. On an elastic sleeve choose the right size clamp and fix it in order to facilitate subsequent installation in place. Alternately unscrew the nuts bolts shank CAT intermediate shaft and flexible coupling, gradually turning the "kardan" to facilitate access to them. Turns away cord fastening the speedometer on the transfer case and allot a flexible shaft to the side. Disconnecting from the transfer case, rear and front driveshafts, and takes them away. Further, releasing attachment "razdatki" to the body (4 nuts "by 13"), remove it from the vehicle. Turns away two screws (top) cover attachment clutch to the engine block.

How to replace ball joints on the classics

Ball bearings are a very important element of the suspension, so as to not be in trouble on the road, you need to regularly check their status. Check the following way: With the help of the jack, hung left wheel, a lower lever summing any stand and slowly drop the car. Lower the lever down on the stand that will remove tension in the sling. Now, holding the wheel with both hands (one hand on the top of the wheel, the other for the bottom), make some sudden movements (top of the wheel - for themselves, the bottom - on my own, and vice versa). If, in carrying out this operation, you will hear a knock or feel that the center of a wheel with the brake caliper and the disc has a backlash in the ball joints, so they need to be replaced. To replace the ball joints will require a standard set of keys, a hammer (if there is a special puller, it's just fine) and jack. Posting the front wheel with the jack. After removing the wheel from the hub, and "unloaded" suspension method described above, with a wrench "to 22", turns away the nut of the upper (or lower ball joint). And here we have two options for further action. First - sharp blows of a hammer on the ledge knuckle (a place where there is a ball) to achieve the liberation of ball bearings from the seat. The second way - by installing a special puller ("Soldier") in the gap between the fingers of the upper and lower ball joints, with two "carob" keys "to 17" and 14 "(there may be variations depending on the manufacturer)," divorce "remover.

Toyota. Repairs to the TRC Toyota

Not so long ago I found in his car, Toyota Crown 1997 release complete with engine 2L-THE, still quite strange and not quite understandable at first sight damage. Previous history of this fault corny classic. Approximately as follows: "Everything was perfect, quiet travel on his typewriter is not a small one and a half years, no problems, but then yesterday it started. On the mound, and possibly even on a flat road (now and can not remember), suddenly on the dashboard lit lightbulb TRC, after a couple of seconds the machine stalled and went on. " An interesting problem, to say the word. Why? Yes, if only because the system TRC on this car with a diesel engine is different from the TRC system in a car with petrol unit, which has a dedicated servo control rod, located on the intake manifold. Here, internal standard, then there is no such, nor any of servo motors do not present any additional valve, just a standard intake manifold and an electronic fuel pump. Thrust is controlled entirely different way, through the electromagnetic relief valve "for mere words - through the valve" under pressure ". With the help define the diagnostic trouble codes, through contacts E1-Tc, which are right and just below the steering wheel on the round diagnostic connector. We discover that constantly "skips" codes 31-32-33-34 and 49. This means that out of order speed sensors or their chains and defective condition of the stop - the signals. With "stop" is understandable, not burned one of the bulbs, but here's the rest still quite interesting.

Self-care for automobile tires

On how to be safe driving a car, depends on many factors, but one of the most important factors are car tires. To feel confident on the roads at any time of year, and as always have an effective brake to help you but good, made from high quality material tires. However, whatever the your tires, cheap or exclusive, all-season or for a specific time of year, in any way for them to look after. Only if you observe all the rules of operation, tires will serve you long enough, and will be the guarantor of security on the road. Rules for proper operation and maintenance of tires: You must often as possible to check the pressure. If the tire pressure will be increased, or vice versa, reduced, then the tires will wear unevenly. In addition, if a different tire pressure will be different, the car's handling deteriorated significantly. How to check tire pressure, certainly knows every driver, but not everyone knows what to do it better before the ride, rather than after, and explained it very simply: while driving, tire pressure can increase, then there would not be true . Prior to the first exit onto the road, you should check whether the tires are installed. Currently, almost all manufacturers of automobile tires manufactured directed rays, so if the tires will be installed "in the wrong direction", then coupling of the car and the road is much worse. We must not forget about balancing the wheels. Given what our roads, it is easy to guess that the wheels of a car on a daily basis are sufficiently strong shocks.

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Replacing the timing belt (Toyota engines (V6) 1VZ-FE, 3VZ-FE, 2VZ-FE, 4VZ-F)

Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the drive and the vacuum tube cruise control system (if installed). Without disconnecting the hoses, remove the power steering reservoir. Apply the parking brake. Raise the front of the car and set it on the supports. Dismantle the front right wheel and podkrylok right front fender. Remove the drive belts power steering pump and alternator. Supporting the engine, remove the right site of its attachment and brackets. Loosen bolts and remove the timing belt and the right motor bracket. Remove the spark plugs. Install piston (first) at TDC compression stroke. Check whether the timing belt installation of four marks. If they are worn out, then put a new one. Ensure correct alignment of installation marks on the camshaft pulleys. Loosen the tension between the camshaft, a little turning right pulley clockwise. Remove the timing belt with pulley and the camshaft themselves if they are worn out or damaged. Remove the cover from head to cylinder block. Hold the camshaft with a wrench for Allen, loosen the pulley bolt. Remove the bolt and remove the pulley. Remove the guide roller. Remove the bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley. If the pulley has been on the crankshaft, use two screwdrivers as levers. Before you undertake the installation of new belt, remove all dirt and oil from the zone of the drive. Align the keyway crankshaft pulley with key crankshaft pulley and install the flange to the engine. Replace the tensioner roller, washer, and insert bolt.

Replacement of antifreeze, the basic rules

Another lesson of Physics, everyone knows that every system, doing jobs that produce heat. In some cases, this pattern can have disastrous results. One of the "organisms" where the temperature of the need to monitor very closely is the car's engine. That is to maintain an optimal temperature regime in the heart of the steel used trotter cooling system operating on fluids, a mixture based on monoetilen and monopropilenglikolya. Their function is to protect the engine from overheating and the cooling system from corrosion and freezing. Coolant should always be replaced after a certain time. In Mazda vehicles scheduled replacement coolant spend 2 years under normal use and every sixty thousand kilometers in intensive. Besides replacing antifreeze should be carried out after any kind of repair work on the cooling system. The reason is that if the coolant of their functions anticorrosion additives contained in it are deposited on the newly installed parts and create a protection against corrosion. To make the process of replacing anti-freeze has passed without any complications you should know how to approach him. To begin, you should follow some rules: 1. All work must be made with the engine shut off. After it is cool to wrap the lid of the cooling system of matter and a little provernuv it counter-clockwise, wait for the pressure. Only if the lid can be removed completely. 2. Should not be used as an antifreeze liquid containing ethanol or alcohol. In cars Mazda engine has a number of aluminum parts, easily damaged and methanol alcohol antifreeze. 3.

Car Mazda: both independently replaced candles

Self-replacement of spark plugs - The simple task even for a beginner motorist amateur. This procedure is performed using the candle key (tubular hexagon) wrench 8 mm, the very spark of a 4 shtuki.Tolko ensure that the correct cooling the engine, you can begin to replace the candles. Open the hood and remove the plastic overlay. To dust, sand or dirt falling into the engine, it is necessary to blow air from the compressor or to brush the space around the candle. With insulator candles removed cap with pre-disconnected high-tension wires: swing it from left to right and carefully sipping up. Spark plug everted candle key twelve turns counterclockwise. Pulling the spark plug from the block head, it must look good. Light brown candles, no soot, burned electrodes and traces of oil on the thread show the normal mode of operation. Detection of the candle dry black smoke means an intensive operation of the engine at idle or low speeds. If the black soot is moist, it is a sign of wear of piston rings, engine or a high level of engine oil in the crankcase. Oil on the candle shows the wear maslootrazhatelnyh caps, causing misfiring and hinders engine start. Special probe is determined by measuring the correct size of the gap between the central and lateral electrodes candles. If necessary, podgibaniem side electrode set the correct distance. Carving a new candle is wiped dry with a cloth and lubricated with corrosion-resistant composition. Then the electrode is lowered down a candle in the candle hole and twisted clockwise through the candle key.

Brake master cylinder (GTZ) and / m Toyota Vista to 95-th at

Disconnect the sensor electrical connector emergency brake fluid level. Remove the liquid from the tank, the brake system. Disconnect the brake pipes from GTZ with the help of a special key. Remove the master cylinder. Unscrew the 3 nuts and remove the cylinder mounting tee braking system. Remove the lock, then the GTZ with the vacuum brake booster and remove the gasket. Loosen the bolt of the brake system reservoir and remove the tank. Remove the lid, filter, and 2 O-rings. Pinch the GTZ in a vise. Using a screwdriver, completely drown the cylinder liner, remove the retaining bolt and remove it along with the gasket. Remove the pistons and piston return springs from the master cylinder. Utopia is a piston with a screwdriver and pliers to remove the retaining ring, remove the retaining ring. Lay the cloth on two wood blocks and easily tap flange GTZ on them until the piston pops out of the hole of the cylinder. Pull the plunger arm is strictly along the axis of the cylinder. Check out the technical details of the state. Inspect the cylinder mirror for rust, scuffing, scratches, traces of high wear or other defects. If such damage is present, GTZ is to be replaced. Apply lithium grease to glycolic O-rings. Install the pistons and piston return springs. Insert the pistons and piston return springs, directing them to strictly along the axis of the cylinder. Drown the piston with a screwdriver and install the retaining ring with the forceps. Using a screwdriver, completely drown the piston and install the retaining bolt with gasket, and tighten it (10 Nm).

Repair of the camshaft, rockers and hydraulic lifters (engine Toyota 1S, 1S-E, 2S, 2S-E)

Disconnect the battery and the inlet of the air filter. Drain the cooling system. Tag and disconnect all hoses, wires, rods, tubes and brackets attached to the hull of a camshaft. Unscrew and remove the rear housing (for motors series 1S-E and 2S-E). Remove the timing belt, pulley, lid and body of a camshaft, loosening each bolt a little at a time. Measure camshaft end-play (max. allowable value - 0,35 mm). Remove the seal from the holder. After removing the holder, remove the distribution of dividing the shaft from the housing. Disconnect the rocker arm, removing them from the lifters. You can then remove the lifters, pulling them out of the cylinder head (it displays rocker and lifters in the correct order to ensure their installation in their original positions during assembly). Check for scoring, pitting, and visible signs of overheating (blue discoloration of) the camshaft and rocker arm. Check the radial runout of a camshaft bearing journals (max - 0,04 mm). With the help of a micrometer, measure the height of the cams (the nominal height - 38,926-39,026 mm, the maximum - 38.78 mm). Then measure the diameter of each neck, and the planting holes in the hull of a camshaft, and compare them to the size recommended by the manufacturer. Before installing the lifters to pump them (remove air). Immerse them one by one in the oil container, insert the mandrel into the hole and sink plunger check valve, then move the plunger up and down several times while applying gentle pressure on the ball.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Replacing the rear shock absorbers for the Mazda 3

To replace shock absorbers, we need the following tools: ~ Key and rattle on 17. ~ The key adjustable one. ~ The key to the 7. ~ Wd-40. ~ Clips for the spring. ~ Also available must have a 4-stop nut. The first thing we do is remove the trim from the trunk of a car. Car lift is not necessary, it would be superfluous. In the trunk there are special bolts to loosen them. They are easily removed without tools. Shock absorbers should be changed at a time, otherwise the brake hoses stretched to the limit. After raising the car with the jack or a special lift. Remove the wheel. The car must be raised to a level that would spring was relaxed. If after lifting the spring is still tense, most likely you have a great spring and will have to shoot it with clamps. Absorber from the bottom side is secured with the help of stop nuts. It must be processed WD-40. Further anchoring nut and rests it in the beam. There are occasions when the nut is very tight, the benefit under the wing enough space to use some sort of pipe as a lever. In the event, and so it does not work, there's another "recipe" removing bolts. Don key on the nut and lift the butt quickly using the jack, with drench the nut with a special solution. When removing the shock absorber under the wheel to enclose that some type of brick or block. This is necessary so that would nebylo useless movements and freewheel when removing the shock absorber. After removal of the nut, bolt is easily removed. The truth while removing it should not be.

Repair of the oil pump on the engine and / m Toyota Camry

Remove the oil pan. Loosen the nuts, bolts and disconnect maslozabornik in collecting and maslootrazhatelnuyu plate (only the engine 3S-FE). Remove the timing belt, roller tensioner pulley and timing belt. Loosen bolts and disconnect the oil pump housing from the engine. Unscrew the two bolts and remove the pump casing from the lid. Remove the drive gear and remove the gasket. Holding the pulley of the pump in a vise, loosen the pulley nut. Remove the pulley and remove the pinion gear. Remove all traces of the old sealant and gaskets from the pump housing and cylinder block. Remove the retaining ring reducing valve oil pressure, the holder, spring and plunger. Clean all parts in solvent, then check the degree of wear and damage. Inspect the surface of the sliding piston relief valve oil pressure and the valve spring. Check the clearance between the driven gear pump and housing (standard gap-0, 10 - 0,16 mm, maximum-0, 20 mm). Check the clearance between the driven and drive gear pump (standard gap-0 ,04-0, 16 mm, the maximum-0, 20 mm). With the mandrel install a new gasket, pre-lubricated seal edge litho. Remove the old gasket. Install a new crankshaft seal, pre-lubricated seal edge litho. Install a new gasket. Lubricate the driven gear pump with engine oil and insert it into the pump housing mark out. Lubricate the shaft drive gear pump and insert the pump cover. Replace the pulley and tighten the nut with the specified torque (28 Nm). Align the holes for the bolts to the pump cover and chassis, install two bolts and tighten to specified torque (9.3 Nm).

Replacement of internal hinge RUS on auto Toyota

Using a small screwdriver to bend the ends of the clamps and loosen them. Apply the paint marks on the mounting end of the shaft, the inner cage, separator and an outer cage constant-velocity joint (hereinafter - CV Joints). Using a screwdriver and a hammer, bring down the lid with a constant velocity joints. With the help of special tongs remove the retaining ring from the shaft. Carefully remove the shaft with constant velocity joints, using rod and a hammer. After removing the joint from the shaft you can remove the cover and pouch. Turn the inner ring and cage assembly into the outer cage and remove the bulbs one by one. Now, from outside the holder can extract the inner ring and cage, turning them into 90 ° and align the holes in the separator with the tab outer holder. A similar device, remove the inner clip from the separator. Wash all parts in solvent and remove all traces of grease. Inspect the separator and holder in the absence of cracks, pitting, scratches and other signs of wear or damage. Not to damage the cover wrap shaft splines tape. Move the small clamp on the cover of the drive shaft, then slide the cover and a large collar. Remove the tape. Gather internal clip with separator, then install them into the outer holder. Check the alignment of all installation labels. Expand the inner ring and cage for installation balls. Place the balls into the seats in the cage one by one. After installing all the balls rotate the outer ring and cage so that the balls are firmly into the inner holder.

Check propeller shaft for auto Toyota

Check the condition and tightness of the bolts holding the driveshaft. Lift the rear of the car and set it on the stand. Block the front wheels, preventing the car from rolling. Visually check the condition of driveshaft. Check for leakage of lubricant in the front and rear propeller shaft. a) Leakage of oil in the place where the drive shaft enters the gear box to indicate damage to the rear oil seal gearbox. b) leakage of oil in the place where the driveshaft enters the differential mean damage to seal the drive shaft rear differential. While under the car, ask the assistant to turn the front wheel. a) Check the rotation of the gear shaft. Make sure that the cardan joints work smoothly, without jamming, noise and backlash. b) Verify the absence of cracks and delamination of the rubber part of the central bearing. If necessary, replace them. Replacing the hinge connecting the intermediate and rear propeller shafts (joint with intersecting grooves). Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle as described in the previous section. Separate the rear drive shaft from the intermediate shaft. With the help of a rod and hammer bring down end cap with a hinge. Using a screwdriver and a hammer knock out the inside cover of rear hinge using special tongs, remove the shaft retaining ring. Shoot down a joint from the shaft by means of a rod and a hammer. Loosen the clamp and slide hinge with propeller shaft. To install the new hinge wrap shaft splines tape, set on the shaft rear cover and clip, then remove the tape.

Painting a car with his hands

Mazda - car, loving care and comfortable service. This directly applies to the painting. And who, if not favorite car owner will be able to do it at the highest level? Of course, do not forget about the general rules and some schemes, preferably during the painting of the car at home to avoid further confusion and make beautiful mazda into a monster. First: Before you start any action on the painting, you need to wash the car, and once again to clarify - it really necessary to paint or you can leave everything as is. Washing, of course, is their own hands and simultaneously check pillar, bottom and other details on the need for repair. If any item requires intervention or change, then the painting should be postponed. Second. Necessary to prepare the body. Using screwdrivers, pliers and other essential tools necessary to untwist and remove all the body parts (locks, gaskets, moldings and other) that should not be painted. After this time-consuming occupation's turn to clean the body from corrosion. If, however, found a hole from rust - then there will only welding. Next, the third stage - a primer. It is a corrosion-resistant coating and is divided into three stages. The first phase - phosphate metal. The second stage - the primer used for alignment, thereby smoothing the microscopic defects and the surface prepared for varnishing. The third stage - gives presentation covering. Now the surface is ready to spray enamel. And thus - the fourth step of directly applying the enamel.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Replacing the spark in the Mazda 3

If your Mazda engine started to act up, namely, bad plant or when driving car shudders, most likely, it's time to change the spark plugs. If you decide to do repairs on their own without the aid station of the service you will need to prepare the following tools: 1) head with a deep attachment. 2) The key with the ability to torque rotation. 3) The key rattle. 4) Special Extension head. 5) Special measures for the calculation of the gap the spark plugs. All operations should be conducted in order signing below: 1) Check only bought spark plugs for defects. On candles should not be cracked, or whether some or other visible damage. 2) Take the wire gauge and use it to check the gap between the "tentacles" of candles. 3) If the gap is more or less than recommended, it is correct. To do this, bend the "tentacle" in the right direction. 4) Now you need to remove the trim with cylinder heads. It is mounted on four bolts that need to unscrew. Further twisting the bolt that holds the ignition coil. After shooting her, and a wire that is connected to the same. Thus, we have full access to the spark plug. 5) Remove broneprovoda with candles. Do it carefully to avoid damaging "naboek" on them. 6) If you have the opportunity to use the device for compressed air, then use it to clear the space around the spark plugs. After that, take the crown extension and deep packed head with them twisted old candles. Pay attention to the candle that just learned that if in addition to scale on the electrode elements of a candle is oil deposit, there is a possibility of a failure of internal engine parts.

Repair of the generator in the car Nissan

Are you in the car Nissan is down the generator is not asleep at the maintenance station, try to solve problems independently. Indeed, perhaps in a simple generator brush wear due to prolonged use, and the SRT will take you to the bank. In order to identify root cause produce visual diagnostics. Lighted lamp charging, the engine is working properly, then look under the hood, how to connect the wires, do not weigh whether or torn belt, if everything is normal, tap the shell of the generator with a heavy object. Charging lamp goes off after that - then broke down the generator due to wear of brushes. Problem identified, proceed to address it on its own. The first stage - the liberation of space to work. Unlock the bottom of the car, it will allow easy access to the generator. Additionally, you can disassemble the radiator is so simple and does not take much time. Do not forget to drain the antifreeze from the lower radiator pipe in the engine block coolant can and leave, blocking all connections. Access is ready, you can begin to rent a generator. Unscrew the wires and natyazhnik, and remove the generator. Excerpted generator place so that the pulley was at the bottom, then, remove the cover with the logo "Magnette-Marelli. Brush Site is under this cover. The second stage - is to replace the brush assembly. Butt rotor brush assembly closes the plastic lid on the vertical rails. Use a screwdriver to remove it. After that, inspect the brushes, if they are worn, remove the generator from this site, gently prying the cover guides, which are also installed on the sled.

Checking the fluids and oils

Check engine oil level in the Mazda 3. To check the oil level we need to probe - a special tool, which is located on the right side of the engine. For accurate test results of oil, the procedure should be carried out either before the trip or after 20 minutes. Tool to check the oil. Remove the dipstick from its "nest" and remove it from the end of an oil liquid. Now paste it to the end in place and re-extract. Inside is a sort of ruler, and it is possible to observe two bands. So check the oil level is on this scale. One mark on the dipstick is approximately one liter of oil. If the oil level does not meet the recommended, it will be necessary to top up. To this end, twisting the cap from the inlet "throat". It is located on the engine, and more precisely on the cover of the cylinder. After using a funnel, fill the missing amount of oil. Liquid cooling. It is very important to monitor the level of cooling fluid! He checked with a probe or a label on the tank with the liquid. If the motor car is well warmed up, the rate of cooling fluid must rise to the top division in the tank. If this does not happen, you need to fill the tank of cooling liquid. Checking the cooling fluid, we look at what would be its level was at elevation between the empty [low] and complete [full]. At low add water and antifreeze to the desired mark. Before pouring fresh fluid, you want to check on the quality of the old. If the liquid that has already been filled earlier, gained, dirty shades or in it there is rust, you have to wash the entire cooling system and change all the coolant.

Repair of steering rack for Nissan Almera, Nissan Bluebird Sylphy, Nissan Sunny

His car and need to love - it will respond to you in return. With this hard to argue. Nissan just can not stop loving, even if it is necessary to repair the steering rack. Determine the need for such repairs can be on what is lost fluid from Gora. Usually there is no need dovivat it every week - is an alarming symptom. If there has been a negative trend, it is better to go to the SRT, but if you do not want to pay extra, you can try on their own to sort rail. We need: liquid Castrol D-III, anthers, glue (WD-40) and, in fact, repair kit (49297-4M485 or only seals 49297-5M328). Useful to be read, just in case the Internet about self repair rail (bright minds often write a lot of interesting things). Make a rough plan of works to be executed and safely handle the case. To do this, first of all need a place where this repair will occur. Well suited spacious garage, which has a repair pit, bench and vise. The spaciousness is needed in order that would be convenient to get that same rail. Pull it stands to the right wheel arch, and hence to the wall, you must have the free distance of two meters. From the tool you'll need:-for loosening rails: heads on 17 and 14 with extension in the seventy see - for: wrenches (full range of captive and carob), a drill with a drill to work on metal (4 - 4,5 mm) , a stripper for tie-rod ends and the gas key. - Auxiliary material: 50 - 70 cm tube with a diameter of 10 mm. And a few plastic bottles of 1.5 liters. But it should be immediately aware of their abilities.

How do I replace the fuel pump

Replace the fuel pump on the forces of any motorist. In that case, if the car will not start and battery and candles in order to inspect the fuel system. When the petrol does not flow into the filter, you want to check fuel pump. It is located under the rear seat, next to the fuel tank. And if the power is supplied, and the pump is not working, you need to take it off, check and change. Before you begin to lift the fuel pump, fuel tank needed emptying. Need to consider precautionary measures: fuel leak, and its vapors are toxic, avoid contact with skin, fuel, produce work near open flames, pay attention to ventilation, it is desirable to produce work in special clothes. So, unplug the mass of the battery, reduce fuel pressure, then remove the rear seats. Unscrew the lid, which is based on the four bolts. Cloth clear the plug and the place where the wire joins the fuel. Disconnect the plug unit of fuel. Clamps relax and disconnect the fuel hoses (they need to mark the tape). Disconnect the fuel supply unit, gently pull out from the fuel tank. Important: The fuel level sensor - not to damage during extraction. Fuel, which leaked to collect cloth. Disconnect the clamp, which fixes the holder and the pad of rubber disconnect, plug the fuel pump is detachable, the clamps open and pull out the fuel pump. Look around the net, through which fuel enters the pump, but usually without replacing the fuel pump (and filter, respectively) - can not do. Install in reverse order of disassembly.

Replacing the rear shock absorbers on a car VAZ-2109

Now you need to replace rear shock absorbers on a car VAZ-2109? No Take your time with this problem in the studio. You would require a minimum of tools (jack, captive set of keys, a little duct tape) and a little time. For starters, the luggage compartment is located rack damper and removes her protective cover attachment. Now you need to remove the top pad together with the support washer. This will require unscrew nut stands, fixing in this case stem from the shock scrolling. Weakens bolts rear wheels. Install a front-wheel drive vehicle recoil "shoes" and, with the jack, raise the "poop." For the safety net necessary to establish support. You can take the wheel. Squaring the lower nut stands and removing the bolt, gently drop the rack down. Now, through the spring coils retrieve the puck from the bottom of the support pillow and the spacer. take out the spring, protective cover, bump stop and the lid, after sinking down rod absorber. Extract from the rack under the rear wheel arches. In case the insulating gasket was not on the spring, you need to remove it from the base of the upper cup springs. Half the battle is done. The next step - setting a new shock absorber. Take a new damper, install it buffer compression . spring, with pre-attached to its upper coil insulating pad (on the bias tape to fix), place on a rack so that the lower loop "sat in his seat. Fix the rack from the bottom on a girder bridge and put on the rack lid with protective cover, pulling rod with wound on his nuts (otherwise, due to spring it will be difficult to do).

Removing and replacing the springs and shock absorbers on the front Mazda

First, disconnect the sensor «ABS» and fix the wiring. Also disconnect the brake hose system. Then remove the bottom cover untwists bolt intermediate shaft, pin and lock nut (use «SST») tie rod. Take off the top of the control rod stabilizer, the lower ball, and by the transfer of an oil pipe with a hose and connector angle sensor (first remove the expansion tank), the nodes rails, steering and front subframe. Before you withdraw these nodes by transmission rack detach the front subframe and stabilizer, the collection of the steering transmission and lower arm. Next untwists on the shock absorber upper nut and lower bolt. After that, put a tough bet (LH and RH) mark up, as shown in Figure 1. On the front lower arm weaken the internal bolt. Then separated from the wheel hub damper, together with a knot knuckle by scrolling with a hammer drive the knuckle (the top). Be careful not to damage the spring, with the flap tissue set «SST» untwists nut and piston rod. After that, remove the rubber gasket. Raise the bearing and hung on the edge of the upper part of anther (Figure 2). Align the tabs bearing (B) and the bottom of the absorber (A) at the same level (Figure 3). Anther set by hanging on a ledge damper on the hook to the lower part, and the limiting stop. With the help of «SST» compress the spring and remove it with a shock absorber. Install the spring and the front bumper is strictly in reverse order. Camber and toe should be within specification. Otherwise, the piston rod nut and spring align.

Monday, June 20, 2011

Oil change Auto Mazda

Oils, which are used in manual transmissions, it is absolutely not suitable for transmission with automatic transmission, then were invented a special type of oil (ATF). Maintenance for Automatic Vehicle Mazda (Mazda) have to do anyway, even if the instruction manual says nothing about replacing the transmission fluid. There are signs by which you can see that understated the level of fluid in the automatic transmission Mazda (Mazda): a deep and prolonged shifting, noise during the automatic transmission, unless there is a move in the moment of switching gears. Fluid must be replaced about every 50-70 thousand miles. And if the car is Mazda (Mazda) is operated in a rather harsh conditions (eg, taxis, private tow, travel to rural or mountainous terrain) - is already changing in 25-30 thousand km. If the transmission is "automatic", it only applies specially designed for her oil ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). If you look at the form, then it is red and almost odorless. Use a different oil is not recommended, only if so recommended by the manufacturer. Replace automatic transmission fluid in two ways: 1.Sdelat partial replacement fluid. First, remove the pan Auto, then the filter and gasket, and replace oil leaked out of the box (it will be approximately 35-45% of the total oil). Happens that way because most oil is in a great number of channels automatic transmission and torque converter. After these procedures, new and old oil blend. 2.Sdelat complete replacement fluid.

Repair work to replace the front brake pads Mazda 3

The following instructions will try to replace the brake pads. The most important thing - to adhere to certain rules. So, in any case is not recommended to press the brake pedal, if you open body of the cylinder, as it can pop out the plunger. It is desirable that the piston anther were not damaged and that the brake disc has not got oil. Replacing brake pads and gaskets must be replaced, especially if the strips are observed traces of rust or flaking of the rubber coating. Unscrew the connecting bolt to strip and replace the caliper should be only if it is assembled. Here, in order to avoid stretching the brake hose, you need a special way hanging body of the cylinder to the wire. Brake Surface burnished needed in the following cases: to produce boring or replacement of drums, or disks, replacing linings, brake shoes, "falling through" the pedal, although the mileage a little. Front brake pads are composed of actual brake pads, tie springs, clamping plates. Before embarking on replacing brake pads, a visual estimate of the thickness of the pads. To this end, lift the car, remove the wheel, look into manhole, located in the housing cylinder. Minimum thickness of brake pads - 1 mm, the maximum allowable value - 2,0 mm. Please note that during this repair, is necessary to replace the inner and outer gaskets, cover gaskets in the kit. 1.Snyat brake pads, for this front wheel lift, wheels to temporarily secure the two nuts. Unscrew the bolt and disconnect the brake hose bracket. 2.

Removing and replacing the clutch on the Mazda

First untwists bolt to grip the tube and disconnect it. To do this, pull the latch in the direction indicated in Figures 1a and 1b. Figure 1a (for the F35M-R) Figure 1b (for the G35M-R) Disconnect manual transmission. Remove the clutch with the clutch and applying a small force in the direction of the axis, check it for soundness, sticky, or any resistance. Next, disconnect the hood and disconnect the plug on the clutch. Establish «SST» and weaken nuts "watercress on a cross" on one turn up until spring pressure does not abate. After that, remove the clutch basket with a disc. If necessary, remove and guide bearing. Holding the flywheel bolts evenly untwists "criss-cross" and remove it. Collect strictly in reverse order. In this case, the flywheel mounted on the crankshaft. If screws were used repeatedly, they cleaned the thread with a special compound. If new bolts, then dispense with this composition. Hand-tighten the flywheel locking bolts, then put it «SST» to the end in order intersecting tighten the bolts. Tightening torque should make LF from 108.0 to 116 nm (11,1-11,8 kgf * m), and Z6 from 96.1 to 103.0 nm (9,8-10,5 kg * m). Guide bearing set with «SST», as shown in Figures 2a, 2b, 2c. When you install the cart was originally set «SST», then in the intersecting direction slowly and evenly tighten the bolts. Torque for Z6 must be from 117.6 to 26.5 nm (1,8-2,7 kg * m), and LF - from 25.0 to 33.0 nm (2,6-3,4 kg * m). Position of the clutch disc also govern with a tool «SST».

Repair and maintenance of car Mazda 626

Repair and maintenance of wheel brakes on the car to car there are cases of leaking brake fluid from the cylinder rear brake drums. In order to fix this leak and repair the car, follow these steps: 1. Loosen the tightening of fastening the wheels to raise the car on the jack, put to insure the stand, remove the wheel; 2.Posle this removed the brake drum. For this pre-shot guides screwed screws into the holes with thread, and the effect is achieved puller. If this fails, resort to another option. Fixing by means of shims wheels that are on the ground, start the engine and the low gear at a slow rotation of the drum brake abruptly. At the same axis rotated in the opening of the drum and it is relatively easy to remove, 3. After the pickup drum to take off the tip of parking brake cable 4. After that the release of the reference panel of brake pads. For this purpose, remove the spring guide and are taken right up for the removal of shoes. To do this, first remove the lower spring, and then nominated the lower ends of the slots support pads and through them, performing a role in this arm is stretched taut over the top spring and the strap is removed and the brake pads themselves. At the same time trying not to damage the caps of the cylinder, made of rubber, 5. Begin to disassemble the brake cylinder, mounted on wheels. To do this, remove the protective cap and using a drift made of soft material vypressovyvayut from the cylinder pistons complete with details of the adjustment of the gap.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

All stages of body repair

In some cases, the need to perform a local body repair turns performing a complete overhaul of the car body and repainting. Trying to make eliminate local defects of the body, the motorist reveals deeper further damage the metal and its corrosion. In order to ascertain the full scope and cost of body repair, you need to rinse and then require careful external examination of the car body. In order to avoid further damage to the car body due to the illiterate and non-professional body repair, contact a professional car repair shop, where a full body repair will be carried out as soon as possible, efficiently and with the latest technology body repair. Anywhere you so wisely did not perform body repair, and yet the quality and correctness of its implementation depends on the look of the car, and the duration of his service to the new repair. Distinguish the major works that accompany body repair. First the collision repair, dirty work on the revision of the metal and smoothing out of major irregularities. In cases where the straightening of metal body parts is not possible, replacement unit or parts of the body. When the local damage is possible to use patches, established by the method of spot welding, soldering with solder, providing reliable protection against corrosion. After a rough start Changes to the primer and thinner planarizing filler. Now on the accuracy of the wizard depends on the quality of the surface, so this step is considered one of the most important and give it the desired attention.

Repair bezkamernoy tires on the road

Years of experience are an experienced driver, is well absorbed by beginners. The road is full of surprises, so some tips to remember or write in a special notebook. VAZ - 2109, as the whole series of similar marks, a tubeless tire. They are convenient and work for the tire changers. But not only this is their advantage over the wheels, with a regular camera. Suppose, on the road there was a nuisance, a flat tire. How to reach the nearest service station if there is no substitute? First of all, you need to establish the cause of the accident. If the disk is not damaged, and there is no obvious dents who violate the integrity of air space inside the wheel, then do not worry. In this case, was rescued by the liquid to wash the glass (it carry with them to maintain the level in the tank) and a short screw. With the help of the jack lifts the car up to the free rotation of the wheel. Gently scrolling it, looking for the chance of damage. As soon as you discover to alleged puncture site, pouring the liquid and begin to pump up the tire. Not necessarily empty an entire canister. Enough to moisten a handkerchief, to a certain moisture content, and using it to wet the suspected sites, carefully examining them. Once it (the wheel) is formed by the pressure at the point where there is injury, will air bubbles. Noting improvised means, discovered a puncture, inserting a screw back, and twists it with a screwdriver. Making sure that air bubbles are no more, you can pump up the wheel to the air pressure recommended by the manufacturer.

Car Mazda 3. Ignition system. Device and repair

Mazda 3 machines began producing in 2003 Machine earned positive reviews of many motorists. Handsome sporty design, comfortable interior, ergonomically designed control system, reliable braking system. Security system with passive and active means is one of the best systems. Ignition System Mazda 3 is part of the vehicle's electrical system. There are 4 coils and 4 candles. External power supply is a battery or generator. To coil (primary winding) is supplied electricity, 12 volt supply voltage is converted into a voltage 30,000 V. C coil (secondary winding) is removed and the high voltage is applied to the electrodes of a candle. The resulting electrical charge ignites the fuel-air mixture. Ignition timing - this is the main parameter that characterizes the state of the ignition system. There are two problems. Late ignition: reduced engine power due to incomplete combustion of fuel. As a result of deteriorating economic (increased fuel consumption) and environmental characteristics (in the exhaust gas content increases: unburned fuel, carbon monoxide and soot). Early ignition: the phenomenon of detonation. Detonation creates in the combustion chamber pressure, which contributes to the destruction of the engine. Adjusting the ignition system is a very important factor, ensuring reliable and efficient operation of the engine. Repair and diagnosis of the ignition system - it's repair and diagnostics of electrical parts, require expertise and equipment. Car owner can independently change the spark plugs (all the rest of the ignition system repairs should be done in specialized shops).

Repairing window lifter

Everyone knows that everything in this life is not eternal, except for not getting windows and the side windows in cars vases. Benefit is that under our domestic cars mechanical repairs windows greatly simplified, rather than a decent role model "foreign cars". And the service window lift home is much cheaper in terms of parts rather than overseas. Yes to install Electric windows pleasure relatively expensive. In order to avoid gathering cable with special guides drum grooves, the two branches of cable is necessary to tie up in the wrong place, at which (Fig. 1) indicated by the arrows Fig.1 Schematic device power windows in cars vases 1 - stick up or down the glass, 2 - retainer and lining 3 is a special socket, 4-main window lift mechanism, 5 - roller bracket; 6-special screw, 7 - plate presses the rope, 8 - special bracket 9 - the glass itself; 10 - line 11 - the lower roller cord, 12 - Bolt, 13 - video cable tension is done in the case Lifter is not removed for replacement. Now you can start removing windows. For a start, the total repair training vehicle. Next, remove the plate that is pressed against the cable and drop all the way steklo.Zayatzhku bolts loosen the tension roller Allen key to 10mm, then the tensioner to move and take off his line. (Figure 2) Figure 2 should be alternated with the remaining three spots to remove the rope. (Figure 3) Figure 3 nuts that hold the mechanism for lowering and lifting the glass should loosen the slip on or Allen key to 8mm. (Figure 4) Figure 4 in the inner door panel has a special tehnolonicheskoe hole through it to remove the windows with pre- lowered the glass. (Figure 5) Figure 5 then set the window lift back.

Adjusting the clutch mechanism NIWA 21213

Distance between piston master cylinder and a pusher, you want to fully integrate the clutch must have a distance of 0,1-0,5 mm, if it does not match the testimony, it is required to perform the following work. Relax key 10 of the coupling nut at the same time withhold key constraint, the same size. After that, remove the tip fitting cylinder and pulling on the hose fitting to the end of which is lowered into a container with brake fluid. Fitting turns away three-quarters of turnover. At the same person in the cabin quickly presses the clutch pedal and quietly let go to what would have disappeared bubbles, isolated from the hose. While holding the clutch pedal wrap socket and remove the hose, put on a cap. Next, key in 10 unscrews nuts clamp barrel body and remove the tank. Set the tank in reverse order. Fill the brake fluid and re-pumps drive clutch. Remove tank clutch turns away tank lid and a rubber pear from the barrel drains all the fluid. Loosen the hose clip fasteners, remove the tube from the tank fitting. Remove the master cylinder clutch first remove the plastic tube with a nozzle main cylinder. Fluid from the barrel merge into a container outstretched in advance or clog hose hole plug. The key to unscrew the tip of the tube 13. Lower nut too head turns away from the extension. Remove the master cylinder with studs. If you want to replace first remove the fitting or the seal with a screwdriver poddevaem and takes out a lock washer. Then remove the plastic fittings with rubber O-ring.